A Vindication of Disorderly Women

The work celebrates the resilience and creativity of disorderly women. The way we wear clothing is questioned, resulting in disorderly garments. The garments empower women by encouraging creative freedom. This research contributes to the discussions about gender inequality in the fashion industry, showing that understanding the past is important to having effective conversations about the future of the industry.

This research vindicates the disorderly women by using contemporary fashion design to respond to and portray the historical exclusion of women from tailoring practice. Practice-based research is supported by historical research and material culture studies. Historical garments are replicated as a form of research. The techniques used to replicate are employed in the final construction of a contemporary fashion collection. All of the final garments were sewn on a treadle sewing machine and hand finished. Historical hand sewing techniques are used to connect the work to women makers of the past.

Through the process of creating the wardrobe of a disorderly women, a methodological approach to telling historical women’s stories through contemporary fashion design was developed. This approach relies heavily on historical research and the integration of techniques used by historical women. My personal respect for and desire to celebrate these women’s story was also central to this research. This research builds on the work of artisanal designers to explore how historical garment replication and hand sewing techniques can be used in the development of a contemporary fashion collection.