Denim, Deconstructed

As conversations around sustainability in fashion continue to grow, this project explores the material culture and afterlife of denim as a way of responding to the wastefulness of the denim industry. Using second-hand denim garments, the research investigates how this pervasive textile can be repurposed through deconstruction and reconstruction.

The research is informed by Maria Skivko’s deconstruction and reconstruction methods, derived from Jacques Derrida’s philosophy of deconstruction, where form, function, and ideology exist in continual tension. Draping is further guided by the principles of Dansaekhwa, the Korean monochrome painting movement, which allows the material to become the active agent in creating the work. The project also draws on the philosophies of Mak & Bium and Wabi-Sabi, embracing imperfection, incompleteness, and the material’s own capacity to shape the final outcome.

The project uses a practice-led methodology centred on draping, deconstruction, and reconstruction. This challenges the conventional fashion design process, which often prioritises efficiency and commodity value from the outset.

Rather than following predetermined patterns, beginning with sketches or conventional pattern-making, each composition developed through an ongoing dialogue with the material, allowing the deconstructed denim parts to guide the design process. Second-hand denim garments were first carefully deconstructed into flat textile components before being draped directly onto the 3D human form, allowing the material to inform the redesign process.

Once each form was resolved, the draped textiles were removed from the mannequin and reconstructed using industrial machine stitching alongside hand stitching where required. Existing seams, frayed edges, fading, and signs of wear were intentionally retained, allowing the history of each garment to remain visible within the final work.

The reconstructed works invite viewers to reconsider how discarded denim can be reimagined by revealing the rich life that remains within the material once it has been stripped of its original, commodified form. By challenging the original function of each garment through draping, the project explores new sculptural forms and ways of positioning denim on the body, shifting it from everyday clothing towards bodily adornment.

Rather than concealing the reconstruction process, each piece openly displays raw seams, frayed edges, and visible stitching as integral design elements. This transparency reflects the values of Wabi-Sabi, embracing imperfection and incompleteness as expressions of beauty, history, and making.

Together, the collection becomes a form of storytelling that encourages viewers to reflect on their own relationship with denim. By revealing the textile beyond its conventional use, the research aims to foster a deeper appreciation of denim as a durable and versatile material, ultimately encouraging longer relationships with garments and supporting more thoughtful approaches to fashion consumption.